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Tourism destinations in Peru A traveler’s guide
A
long desert and agriculture related tradition encompasses
the City of Ica, capital of the department of the same
name. From Colonial times, Ica became an important wine
producing center. Tradition tells that few years after the
Spanish conquest, vines brought from the Canary Islands
were planted in this sunny land, and everyone was
surprised at how easily the plant adapted to its
environment. This not only made it possible to produce
excellent wines, but it was also the beginning of the
production of a grape liquor, called pisco which
conquered the taste of the Spaniards themselves and which
continues to conquer all those who try it. However, the
creativity of the people from Ica also gave origin to a
new product: the cachina, a liquor prepared from fermented
grape must, a very popular drink at local festivities.
In
addition to enticing us with its drinks, Ica invites us to
taste the wide variety of dishes made from pallares, or
lima beans, as well as delicious desserts like frejol
colado (strained black beans mixed with milk, sugar and
sesame seeds) and tejas, which consist of pecan, lemon or
figs filled with manjarblanco (liquid fudge) and covered
with a coat or two of sugar glazing.
The
strong winds which so easily raise clouds of sand, locally
known as Paracas, have shaped singular dunes, covering the
famous Pampas of Ica with sand, jealously guarding the
mysteries of old regional cultures. In spite of the
shortage of water in the area, the inhabitants of Ica have
achieved an admirable level of agricultural development,
thanks to the design of complex irrigation canals, which
took advantage of underground water filtering.
Signs of the first inhabitants of the region date back to
at least 5,000 years ago, as evidenced by the remains
found in the Paracas Peninsula. Ica has been the
development center for important cultures, like the
Paracas (600 B.C. - 400 A.C.) and the Nazca (200 B.C. -
800 A.C.). Famous for their advanced knowledge of
medicine, the Paracas were successful in brain surgery
trepanation and deformation. They also mastered the
manufacturing of beautiful knits, interweaving highly
colorful wool and cotton yarn, the embroidering and
designs of which are still widely admired. Much later, the
Nazcas left aqueducts in the pampas, some of which are
still being used to irrigate the fields and impressive
archaeological evidence which is still to be deciphered,
such as the case of the Nazca Lines.
The
region became part of the Tahuantinsuyo during the
government of Inca Pachacútec, who ordered the building of
an important administrative and religious center, known as
Tacaraca, which is said to have been the residence of the
local governor Aranvilca.
With the Spanish
conquest, the area was initially divided into two rich
encomiendas (estates granted to Spanish colonists by
royal decree): Hanan Ica and Urin Ica. Later, in 1563, the
Viceroy Count of Nieva, ordered Luis Jerónimo de Cabrera
to found the Villa de Valverde, which since June 1640 came
to be known as Ica. The village which preceded the present
city was initially situated in a place which had to be
abandoned as a result of the terrible destruction produced
by an earthquake, causing its relocation to its present
site.
Ica has always been a city recognized for its agricultural
importance, as well as for being a key point in Southern
Peru’s trade circuit. In the 19th century, the Chincha
Islands became a strategic place for the exploitation of
guano as fertilizer, a key resource in the national
economy of those days. Subsequently, thanks to the cotton
crops, the economy of Ica recovered its dynamism.
Currently, Ica maintains its farming tradition with vast
areas of grapevines, cotton, lima beans, pecans and fruits
of many types, contrasting with the beauty of the desert.
Ica is well known for its excellent climate, where the sun
shines the whole year round. From December to March the
temperature rises noticeably during the day, with an
average of 30º C at mid-day, cooling off slightly during
the evening. In the months of July and August, temperature
drops, especially at night, when it reaches a minimum of
8º C. Due to the desert type climate, rainfall is scarce
and the sun is strong. For this reason, it is advisable to
use some sort of sunscreen protection and hats.
With an altitude of 406 masl, Ica can be easily reached by
road directly from Lima along the South Pan-american
Highway, the trip takes 4 hr (the distance is 303 km). To
get there by air one uses charter plane services operating
from Lima. The trip lasts 1.5 hr.
Main Square
As in many cities in Peru, Ica’s Main Square continues to
be an essential meeting place for residents and tourists
alike. From the Main Square one can see the Prefect’s
Office, the Municipality, the Cathedral and Casa Bolívar,
as well as enjoy part of the community’s daily life. This
is a good starting point to cruise through the city.
The
Cathedral
Built in the 18th century and remodeled in 1814, this
church belonged to the monumental complex of the Society
of Jesus. The sober neo-Classic facade is perfectly
complemented with its interior, predominantly Baroque.
Worth noting are the exquisite wood carvings of the pulpit
and the altars, as well as the paintings of the
evangelists in the arches.
Temple of
Our Lord of Luren
In the mid 16th century, the Conquistador Nicolás de
Rivera El Viejo ordered the construction of a chapel to
house the Our Lord of Luren, the city’s patron. This image
of Jesus Christ, noticeably darkened by the aromatic herbs
and incense smoke and the passing of the years, gathers a
great number of worshipers year after year. The
neo-Classic style church is popular for its pointed and
single tower, with a clock at its base. A single door
crowned by four auxiliary windows serve as the main
entrance to the building.
All around the church there are a large number of people
selling candles, religious stamps and replicas, among
other religious items related to the devotion to Our Lord
of Luren.
According to tradition,
the image was on its way from Spain, when a storm hit the
vessel causing the Master to order the unloading of all
its freight. This is how the crate housing the sculpture
was thrown into the sea. For days, the crate ran adrift
until it was rescued. Fray Francisco Madrigal bought the
sealed box; and when he opened it, he was most surprised
to see a statue of Christ absolutely unharmed. He then
took it to the City of Ica, where he did not take long to
gather hundreds of worshipers.
Church of
San Francisco
The Church of San Francisco is an impressive sight in the
City of Ica, not because of its age, as it was built in
the 20th century, but because of its size. Access to the
main building is through a portal, while two towers ending
in double-arched belfries rise at the side entrances.
Inside, there are tainted windows portraying scenes of the
life of Saint Francis of Assisi, which are predominant in
the church. The most important work of art on display is a
painting of Immaculate Mary dating back to the 18th
century. In this modern temple, the traditional side
altars have been replaced by shelves bearing several
sacred images.
Casona of the Marquis de Torre Hermosa
One of the few samples of Colonial architecture in Ica is
the grand old house belonging to the Marquis and
Marchioness of Torre Hermosa. This house is also known as
Casa Bolívar, as the Libertador stayed there when he
visited the city. The house has an exquisite Rococo style
portal made of carved-stone.
Casa
Mallqui
Also known as the House of the Cornucopias, this Rococo
style Colonial mansion is known for its works in gypsum,
its hollow columns and impressive facade. In the inside
there is a very appealing center garden and a gallery.
Casa del
Valle
Pleasant Republican house unique due to the graceful
combination of its beautiful carved-wood entrance and its
two exterior windows with roofs and bars.
María
Reiche-Grosse Newman Regional Museum
This
Museum has very interesting pieces of the Paracas, Nazca,
Ica, Chincha and Inca Cultures. One can appreciate fossil
remains, petroglyphs, beautiful Paracas cloths, exquisite
pieces of Nazca ceramics and Inca quipus, an ancient
Peruvian device used for recording facts and events. In
the Anthropology Room there are pieces which include
samples of brain surgery, trepanation and deformation,
trophy heads and pre-Colombian mummies. The Museum also
has an interesting collection of paintings, adornments and
Colonial furniture, as well as some objects from the
Republican era.
Huacachina
Surrounded by dunes, palm trees and huarangos, small
tropical American trees (Caesalpina coriaria), the Lagoon
of Huacachina appears as a sort of illusion in the desert,
only 5 km west from the City of Ica. In olden times, the
lagoon became famous among the residents due to the
medicinal properties of its filtered waters. Today it is a
peaceful resort which is ideal to take a rest and enjoy
the landscape.
It is possible to take boat rides in the lagoon. Those
seeking some sort of adventure can practice sand boarding
on the dunes. The equipment necessary for this sport can
be rented from some of the local stores.
Town of
Cachiche
Only 4 km southwest of Ica, or 8 min away, there is a
town which has been famous since the 19th century because
of its witches, who used to prepare amulets and cured all
types of diseases. Today, it is said that certain persons
still continue these old habits in hiding. In the forest
one can even find a monument in honor of the good deeds of
the witches of Cachiche.
Friars of
Parcona Forest
This is a stone forest located 5 km east of the city. It
challenges the imagination of visitors, allowing them to
visualize a turtle, the head of a monkey, a toad or a
fish, which are figures carved into the stones by the wind
with the passing of the centuries.
Achirana del Inca
Canal
Only 15
min away by car, 18 km northeast of Ica, there is an old
Inca irrigation canal. Legend tells that in the times of
Inca Pachacútec, Túpac Yupanqui, his successor, personally
directed the conquest of these valleys, and that he felt
deeply in love with Chumbillalla, the daughter of the
local governor. The love they had for each other prevented
an armed battle. The young girl then told the messenger
about the plight of her people caused by the lack of water
in the area. Upon learning this, the Inca immediately sent
40,000 men to build a great canal, reportedly 30 km long,
which irrigated approximately 11,000 ha of cultivated
fields. That canal is presently known as Achirana del
Inca.
A Tour
Through the Wine Cellars of Ica
It is
not a coincidence that Ica is considered the capital of
the Peruvian pisco and wine. A tour around its different
areas entices one to taste the delicious pisco and the
good wines from Ica. The tours include visits to the most
famous wine cellars as well as to picturesque small
traditional cellars (or bodegas) which open their doors to
the visitors and invite them to taste the different
varieties of wines and piscos, such as the quebranta (pure
pisco made of Quebranta grapes), lemon pisco, Torontel
pisco (made from a variety of sweet white grape known as
Torronte) acholado (blended pisco) mosto verde (green
unfermented pisco) and añejo (aged pisco).
Palpa and
Surrounding Areas
The
City of Palpa is located 92 km from Ica, opposite km 395
of the South Pan-american Highway. There are a large
number of geographical carvings of various shapes, which
can be seen by climbing the slopes of the nearby hills.
Worth noting is the so-called Tejido de Sacramento.
Continuing 11 km to the southeast, are the petroglyphs of
Chichictara, where one can evidence shapes of snakes,
felines and beings with anthropomorphic features. Access
to Chichictara is not easy, as climb up the slope is
demanding but worth it, however, to appreciate the area’s
landscape.
Nazca Lines
 Nazca
is located 142 km from the City of Ica. It is a city which
has preserved the secrets of its ancestors, great masters
of ceramics and the authors of the huge and impressive
system of lines and drawings dispersed over the pampas.
The Pampas of San José, between km 419 and 465 of the
South Pan-american Highway, are the site of the famous
Nazca Lines, comprised of over 70 giant figures and some
10,000 lines imprinted on the land, which have been
declared the Cultural Heritage of Mankind by UNESCO.
Figures like those of a monkey, a humming bird, a guanay (phalacrocorax
bougainvillii) and a spider amaze people who look at them
from the air or from the viewpoint located opposite km
420 of the Highway. According to María Reiche-Grosse, who
dedicated most of her life to studying these lines, this
is meant to be a giant astronomic calendar which dates
back to approximately 500 A.C.
Opposite km 417 one may find the María Reiche-Grosse
Newman Site Museum, where part of the study material of
the German researcher has been gathered, as well as
photographs, maps, drawings and models. There are several
companies offering their services to fly over the Lines,
both out of Nazca as well as out of Ica.
The
Cantalloc Aqueduct
 The inhabitants of the old Nazca Culture built a huge
number of canals which allowed them to irrigate vast areas
of land. Some of them are still in use in spite of their
age. Of the more than 30 existing Nazca aqueducts, the
most popular one is Cantalloc, located 4 km away from the
City of Nazca towards the Puquio – Cusco road. The holes
or breathers observed in these canals allowed their users
to control and clean the water.
The
Nazca hydraulic engineering work is actually surprising.
Underground galleries would capture the water filtering
from the sub-soil, carrying along canals which were
slightly tilted towards the wells from where irrigation
was controlled. The aqueducts were built with material
from the area, such as quarry stones, flat rock and trunks
of huarango, a typical tree in Ica.
Cahuachi
and Estaquería
After a 20 min trip from Nazca, 17 km to the northeast,
one arrives at this old religious center of the Nazca
Culture, comprised of large plazas, cemeteries and two
adobe pyramids which have been deeply affected by the
passing of time. Very close to it, is Estaquería, another
Nazca building which is also believed to have been a
ceremonial center and which still features some carob
trees marking the contour of what is supposed to have been
a platform.
Paredones
On the slopes of a not so high hill there are traces of an
old Inca settlement, only 2 km away from the City of Nazca.
These adobe and stone buildings preserve the trapezoidal
niches typical of the Inca architecture. A viewpoint has
been identified in the upper section from where one may
distinguish the traces of the old Inca plazas that formed
part of the complex.
Pisco
Founded as a villa in 1640, on the orders of the Viceroy,
Marquis of Mancera, today Pisco is a small city of
fishermen and farmers located 76 km from Ica. Due to its
proximity to the Bay of Paracas, it has become a popular
place for tourists. In its Main Square there is the
Cathedral, dating back to the 17th century, as well as the
Moorish style building of the Municipality. A block away
from the square is the Church of the Society, a Baroque
temple housing paintings from the School of Cusco and gold
leaf -decorated altars.
The
name of the city is almost immediately associated with
pisco the grape liquor produced on Peru’s South Coast,
especially in the Region of Ica. During Colonial times the
popularity of the liquor was quickly related to the Port
of Ica calling it aguardiente de pisco (grape brandy)
National
Reserve of Paracas
 It is
located at a distance of 42 km from the City of Ica along
a paved road, although access is easier from the City of Pisco (76 km from Ica). This is a shelter for sea lions,
Humboldt penguins, otters, dolphins and a great variety of
resident and migrating birds, including the gray seagull,
the Inca tern (larosterna inca), the rayador (rhynchops
nigra), the cholo ático, the red legged cormorant, (phalacrorax
gaimardi) and the guanay (phalacrocorax bougainvillii).
The Paracas Reserve, which comprises 335,000 ha, is not
only a natural paradise, but also an important
archaeological center with traces of the ancient Paracas
Culture that dates back from 700 B.C. to 400 A.C., a town
of great weavers who produced multicolored cloths, true
pieces of art.
Paracas is the center of important tourist attractions,
such as the Cathedral, the Candelabrum and the Ballestas
Islands, as well as the beautiful beaches of Atenas, La
Mina, El Raspón, Mendieta and Barlovento. To enjoy the
beauty of the Reserve, one may travel both by land and by
sea, boarding a boat at the Chaco beach, before going into
the reserved area, next to the seaside resort of Paracas.
An
impressive rocky formation, produced by erosion and the
sea tide, crowned by a tower, is known as the Cathedral.
Its cliffs are home to the Peruvian boobies (sula
varegata) and other sea birds, while in the lower section,
known as the cave, one can observe the marine otter or
chinguno (lutra felina) an animal which may hardly be
found in other areas.
North of the Paracas Peninsula, looking out to sea, there
is a figure engraved in the sand, called the Candelabrum
or Three Crosses, the origin of which continues to be
unknown. For some it is a symbol that guided seamen and
fishermen during the first half of the 19th century.
Visiting the Ballestas Islands means coming into contact
with the very rich wildlife of the Reserve, particularly
with the sea lions, which can be observed at large.
South of the Reserve is Punta Arquillo, a cliff with an
impressive view of the horizon, of the islands and of the
sea lions gliding through the waves. With a little luck
one can see the majestic flight of the condor searching
for food. Another interesting spot to visit is
Independence Bay, two and a half hours away from the
Reserve, by car, over the sandy roads of the area, heading
southwest. This is the bay where José de San Martín
disembarked and which gave rise to his campaign to
liberate Peru. The visit is worth it if one wishes to
spend a peaceful day at the beach, or camping. In that
case, Cruz de Carhuaz is one of the most advisable places
to go to because of its large beaches and calm waters.
The
different beaches offer visitors a chance to swim, fish,
snorkel or windsurf. It is convenient to take good care
upon entering the sea, as there are usually pastelillos or
sting rays, which may injure bathers. It is recommended to
wear closed tennis shoes or to drag ones feet to scare
them away.
Julio C.
Tello Site Museum
This Museum is located at the entrance to the National
Reserve of Paracas. It features various objects found
during the excavations carried out at the archaeological
sites of the area, such as Cerro Colorado and Cabezas
Largas. The exhibits include remains of the first
inhabitants of the region, engaged in hunting and
collection, as well as samples of the splendid textiles,
ceramics and handcrafts in general, related to the Paracas
Culture.
Cerro
Colorado and Cabezas Largas
The desert’s sand covered two huge cemeteries: Cerro
Colorado, at the foot of the Interpretation Center of the
National Reserve of Paracas; and Cabezas Largas, only 200
m away from the Julio C. Tello Site Museum. Peruvian
archaeologist Julio C. Tello fervently spent his time
researching the peninsula, which in 1925 led him to
discover traces of the Paracas Culture. For generations,
this culture had buried its dead in two types of tombs: In
Cerro Colorado, dating back to approximately 400 A.C.,
resembling the shape of an inverted cup with a deep
funerary chamber, where mummies were found, carefully
wrapped in several layers of cloths. Some skulls showed
signs of trepanation, successfully in many cases, by the
Paracas. At present, the remains are covered, and only
part of some walls may be observed.
The Cabezas Largas Cemetery, dating back to 200 B.C. owes
its name to the elongated shape of some of the skulls,
that were intentionally deformed, perhaps as a symbol of
authority. This also evidences changes in the funerary
customs, since individuals were buried in groups at a very
small depth, wrapped in carefully woven cloths. These
cloths are considered to be the best example of the
Peruvian textile art, both for the excellent choice of
dyes and the cotton fabrics with which they were made, as
well as for their fine embroidered designs. Many colors
are used and a great variety of anthropomorphic beings
with feline and bird-like features reflecting a complex
cosmic vision, decorate these dazzling cloths.
Tambo
Colorado
Heading north along the South Pan-american Highway,
opposite km 229, there is a detour towards the Los
Libertadores Highway. Tambo Colorado, an important Inca
administrative center may be found opposite km 5 on this
highway. Its original name appears to have been Pucatampu.
Built during the years of the administration of Inca
Pachacútec, this constituted a connecting point with the
Inca road joining Ayacucho with the Pacific coast. Its
stucco walls still have the niches where one can observe
traces of the red and yellow pigments used in their
decoration. Distributed around a plaza, there are
different buildings, some of which were used in ceremonies
and others for more profane purposes, such as warehouses
or living quarters.
Chincha
Following the South Pan-american Highway, northwards, 103
km from Ica, one arrives at Chincha, a warm city which
combines the African heritage and certain traditions,
Peruvian paso horses and cock fights. El Carmen, 6 km from
the city, features Afro-Peruvian tradition. To the beat of
a wooden rectangular drum called cajón, a quijada de
burro, a typical Peruvian musical instrument made from a
donkey’s jaw and a guitar, these African descendants
brought during the Colonial times to work in the
haciendas, preserve their dances and their exquisite
culinary tradition.
Hacienda
San José
 This Colonial estate is located 15 km southeast of Chincha,
in the District of El Carmen. In the late 17th century,
Jesuits built one of the most beautiful haciendas on this
property which remains until today. Its arches, its
portals and its large patio give one the feeling of having
gone back a few centuries in time. The chapel features a
beautiful Baroque alter, finely carved in wood. During a
tour around the estate one may observe the yokes, plows
and carriage wheels used long ago. Also worth seeing is an
underground tunnel through which, according to some
versions, the slaves were taken.
Tambo de Mora and La Centinela
The
Chincha Culture flourished in this Region between the 9th
and 15th century A.C. Despite having been conquered by the
Incas, this culture maintained its good name and authority
thanks to their commercial activities. The Chincha people
skillfully sailed to Ecuador from where they brought
mullets or spondyli, a very valuable seashell for the
different Andean cultures. At a distance of 11km from the
City of Chincha, lies Tambo de Mora, one of the most
important administrative centers of this culture in
pre-Hispanic times, that formed part of the complex known
as Chinchaycámac and which is estimated to have comprised
some 500 ha. The Centinela Ruins, 8 km away from the South
Pan-american Highway, also formed part of the complex. It
features a pyramid shaped structure, a large number of
patios and walls decorated with geometrical embossed
figures. The buildings underwent certain changes during
the rule of the Incas.
February
Black Summer in Chincha (fourth week)
In the District of El Carmen, a festival is held for one
full week in honor of the black people. Storytelling and
poetry contests are held, as well as black dance festivals
amusing, lively marches and other activities.
March
The Grape Harvest Festival (Vendimia) (first fortnight)
The
Festival of the Grape Harvest in the City of Ica, called
La Vendimia is one of the most famous in Peru. The
festivities include exhibits of Peruvian paso horses, cock
fights, dances and cultural and sporting events. The
Vendimia Parade is organized on the main day, where a
group of festival queens parade in cars throwing bunches
of grapes as they pass. This is a good time to taste the
different Ica wines and piscos, as well as the popular
cachina, a liquor prepared from fermented grape must.
Easter (date subject to change)
The Cities of Ica, Pisco and Chincha devotedly recall the
passion and death of Christ. Religious prayers on nine
days and processions are characteristic of this
celebration. On Thursday night, the image of Our Lord of
Luren tours the streets of Ica, while the procession of
our Lord of Agony is held in Pisco.
May
Tourism Week in Nazca
May 15
A series of cultural activities are held in the City of
Nazca in honor of María Reiche, who spent many years
studying the Nazca Lines.
June
17, Jubilee Week of Ica
The
Iqueños, people from Ica, celebrate the anniversary of
the foundation of their city with a series of activities,
such as dances, school parades and lively marches.
June 29, Fishermen’s Festival, St. Peter and St. Paul’s
Religious Holiday
The cove of San Andrés, in Pisco, holds festivities in
honor of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, whose images are
taken on a picturesque boat ride, accompanied by musical
bands and fishermen. The celebrations include cuisine
contests featuring shellfish and fish based dishes,
challenging the imagination of the best of cooks.
September
8, Tourist Week in Pisco
This is to commemorate the disembarkation of José de San
Martín and his liberation troops at the Bay of
Independence. The celebrations include festivals,
contests, pageants and tours along the main tourist
attractions of the Province.
September
27, Tourism Week in Ica
In
order to promote the main tourist attractions of the city,
Ica organizes Peruvian paso horseshows, wine contests,
pisco tasting events, walks from wine cellar to wine
cellar and the International Sand Boarding Contest.
October
Our Lord of Luren (second and third weeks)
The festivities in honor of Our Lord of Luren take place
on the third Sunday in October, when his image is carried
in a procession along the main streets of the city.
Hundreds of people travel to the City of Ica to join the
procession, and to participate in the recitation of
prayers on nine days to seek special favors and show
their devotion. Ica’s streets are filled with beautiful
arches and carpets of flowers, especially made for the
occasion.
* Courtesy
of Promperu. |
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